There is some sediment at the bottom of my can. Is the product ok to use?

It is normal to find some sediment in most products, simply stir the product thoroughly before use to incorporate the sediment. Use a broad implement such as a palette knife or a wide flat stick.

Satin and Matt finishes contain a matting agent which settles upon storage.
Coloured products contain pigments which may also settle, such as Rustins Floor Dye, Coloured Varnish and Brick & Tile Paint, to name a few.
If the sediment is not thoroughly mixed-in by stirring, the product may dry to the wrong sheen (i.e. glossy instead of matt) or may result in the wrong colour.

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Can I use a water-based dye under a solvent-based coating and vice versa?

Yes, when using Rustins products. Rustins Floor Dye is water based but can be used under all of our floor coatings or clear finishes. Rustins Wood Dye is solvent-based and can also be used under all of our floor coatings and clear finishes.

The most important thing is to allow the correct drying time before applying the finish over the dye.

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Do I have to sand between coats?

This depends on the type of finish used. Water-based finishes such as Acrylic Varnish and Acrylic Floor Coating tend to raise the grain when the first coat is applied. After the first coat has dried, raised grain should be lightly sanded smooth before applying the subsequent coats.

Solvent-based finishes do not usually require sanding between coats. However these finishes may be sanded if required, for example to remove any imperfections such as drips or runs. If an extended period has occurred since the previous coat had dried it is wise to lightly hand sand the surface to provide a key.

If using Wet & Dry paper, use white spirit as the lubricant, not water which can damage partially cured finishes.
Use only very fine grades of abrasive paper.

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Should I use a water-based finish or a solvent-based finish?

Each type of finish has its own advantages. Solvent-based finishes tend to bring out the grain of wood and the colour often deepens when these are applied. Applying some water to the bare wood is a good predication of how a solvent-based finish will affect the wood. Polyurethanes have a rich amber tone and also darken on ageing, however they are relatively slow drying. Plastic Coating is non-yellowing on ageing, chemically and abrasion resistant, and very fast drying. The wood itself will continue to change colour regardless of the type of finish applied.

Water-based finishes such as Acrylic Varnish or Exterior Varnish tend to have the least effect on the colour of the natural wood and are non-yellowing on ageing. They are also quick-drying, low odour and brushes can be cleaned in water.

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How can I protect my timber without altering the colour of the wood?

Water-based finishes such as Acrylic Varnish or Exterior Varnish tend to have the least effect on the colour of the natural wood and are non-yellowing on ageing.They are also quick-drying, low odour and brushes can be cleaned in water. Please be aware though that the timber itself will darken regardless of the coating applied, this is particularly true with resinous timbers such as Pine.

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What can I use to seal my wooden kitchen work surface?

For a durable heat, water and alcohol resistant finish we would advise that Plastic Coating is used. It is important that any endgrain is sealed, especially around the sink area. Please leave for at least 48 hours for the coating to fully harden before allowing food to come in contact.

Many people prefer the natural look that oils impart timber. Danish Oil and Teak Oil are popular for this purpose. Danish Oil will give a low lustre satin finish, Teak Oil will dry glossy. Although oiled surfaces will have some resistance to staining they are not as durable as varnishes and must be regularly maintained. Apply at least five coats initially, thinning the first coat with 20% White Spirit to improve penetration. Leave for 48 hours to allow the solvents to evaporate before allowing food to come into contact. Re-oil at least every 6 months.

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